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California Rock Fishing Lure 3D Printed Version

California Rock Fishing Lure 3D Printed Version 1


I miss rock fishing sometimes and my friend Jason, from All Out Blitz Fishing, sent me a message that he wanted me to make him some swim baits for rock fish, lean cod, cabezon, and halibut. He was even nice enough to send me some Dead On plastic salt water blend to make them with. It only took me a few months to get around to making these rock fishing lures, but this is what I came up with.

If you’ve ever used swim baits for rock fish or lead cod, you know they’re pretty basic baits that don’t need a lot of fancy stuff. They're super simple, rock fish and lean cod aren’t that picky. I wanted to make this one special for my friend Jason so I decided that instead of fin on the side, I would use the state of California.

Fusion 360 rock fishing lure

 

I hopped into Fusion 360 and I modeled the body of the bait using my loft technique. Basically, you make a wire frame of the bait and use the loft command to create the body and the tail. I found a .svg of the state of California, then downloaded and imported it into Fusion 360. From there, I scaled and rotated it around and placed it where I wanted it on the body. I just extruded it out from the body, which is a pretty simple and straightforward process.

You can do this process with any .svg, text, or anything else you would want. I completed version one and printed out three molds because it takes just as much time to print out three as it does one and if it works, I have three molds ready to go. Then, I decide to hand pour the molds. Jason mentioned wanting a blue rock Cod, so I looked them up and saw that they have dark splotches against a relatively light blue background. Based on that, I came up with three colors- a purple-ish black, a very light blue and an iridescent white called interference blue. The interference blue is a kind of white that shades blue when you rotate it around, it’s one of my favorite colors. I’m terrible at hand pouring, but if you want to see a master hand pourer go see Chris over at Worlds Worst Fishing. He’s an artist at what he does while I’m just throwing stuff around.

pouring rock fishing lure molds

Then, I just poured the color into the molds then added the top coat which was the interference blue. I was pretty happy but when I went to pop them out of the mold I noticed right away that I had a major problem. The tail section was very think and I didn’t think it would hold up to short bites from Rockfish, especially the smaller ones, even with the tough saltwater plastic. So I popped the frame back into Fusion 360 real quick and made a few slight adjustments. I adjusted the width and the depth of the back tail section and I also beefed up the back of the tail itself and put it at a slight angle. I also added a lot more room in the tail for the plastic to go. Twelve hours later, I have three great 3D printed molds and I go and pour them again.

completed rock fishing molds

I didn’t want to mess around with the hand pouring again since I’m terrible at it so I went with a straight pour this time adding the light blue, then a purple top coat. This time, these came out great and I think they’re going to be absolutely killer. As soon as Jason fishes them, I’ll put a link so you can see the results.

 

If you want to see in depth how these are put together, there is a tutorial. I also emailed this out to my mailing list who got the entire STL file if anyone is interested in printing it out themselves.

Take care and tight lines

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3d Resin Printer Heater – Cheap and Easy!

3d Resin Printer Heater - Cheap and Easy! 2


 

Hey guys!  I was hanging around the Siraya Tech group on Facebook and someone from Siraya Tech mentioned using fermentation belts to keep resin warm in the vat so I decided to check it out. Here are my findings.

What is a Fermentation Belt?

For those who don't know, fermentation belts are basically a heating element wrapped in silicone with a plug on it. They’re simple devices, you plug them in and they get warm or hot (depending on your definition of hot). They're primarily used to make beer, kombachi, kimchi, etc. You can use fermentation at a relatively steady temperature. So you might be wondering, why you need to do this?

fermentation belt image

Why Do You Need One?

There's two main reasons why you might need a fermentation belt to heat your resin. Number one is if you're working in a non-conditioned space (no A/C or heat), you have relatively wild temperature swings or it simply gets too cold for your resin to work properly. All resins have temperature ranges that they're designed to work in. If you set up your resin 3D printer, run some test prints and get an exposure time, then the temperature drops that exposure time will be longer. If it gets warmer, then the exposure time potentially gets shorter. If you're in an unconditioned space and you start printing at one temperature, then the temperature drops significantly, the exposure time is going to change and your print's going to fail.

The second reason is some resins are specifically designed to work best at higher temperatures. The resins I primarily use are Siraya Tech Sculpt and Siraya Tech Build. According to Siraya Tech, both work best above 25 degrees Celsius. You might have seen my other video where I built an enclosure, put a thermostatically controlled outlet on it and a cheap amazon heater. That worked great and it's still a completely viable build and it works especially well if you want to enclose some of the fumes that could be produced while 3D printing.

temperature of resin

The Results

The fermentation belt is not only good, but it’s fast and it's cheap which is kind of a miracle of engineering. I strapped one onto my Epax E10 and about an hour later the resin was up to 25 Celsius. Within about two hours, it stabilized at right around 30 Celsius. This is perfect as resin needs to be above 25 and 30 Celsius as well within a normal range. The belt fits perfectly on the Epax E10. On my smaller Creality LD2, I had to put a support. You can use materials such as a rubber band or a Velcro strap to hold the fermentation belt close to the vat. If you have a printer with a metal vat, such as a Saturn or the Mars, its going to heat up quicker since they're more heat conductive.

fermentation belt on a 3D printer

Heating Resin Outside of the Vat

There's one area where this doesn't perform as well as my heated enclosure and that is if you need to add resin in the middle of a print which I often have to do when I’m printing large molds. So for that you need another fermentation belt, or in this case I got a Kombucha heater. You can also get large pad heaters if you want to do multiple prints. These pad heaters work really well since you can put multiple resin containers inside and keep them heated. It still comes out much cheaper than the enclosure and the thermostatic control outlet and the space heater. You're looking at under sixty dollars for the fermentation belt set up and it works great.

 

Links to the different fermentation belts I’ve used are in the description below. if you're using any engineering resin that needs to be warm, this is a great way to do it. It absolutely works flawlessly.

Good luck with it guys. Take care- tight lines.

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Epax E10 vs Elegoo Saturn – Which one is right for you?

Epax E10 vs Elegoo Saturn - Which one is right for you? 3


What’s up everybody today we’re going to break down the differences between the Epax E10 and the Elegoo Saturn, two mid-sized resin printers. I bought both of these printers will my own money from the original manufacturers. I got the Elegoo Saturn as part of the pre-order that they did and have had it for about nine months. I just picked up the Epax  E10 about a month and a half ago so I think I have a good amount of experience with both printers to give you a breakdown.
Epax E10 printing

Printing

Printing wise these are both the same basic printer 4k monochrome you're going to get fantastic print results with both of these printers there's really no difference between one or the other when it comes to print quality. On the Epax E10 you're gonna get a little bit bigger build volume on the z-axis it's almost a full two inches 50 millimeters an additional z-height.  If you're like me and you're printing fishing lure molds or you're printing larger objects masks helmets things like that extra two inches could really come in handy. Another quick difference is the vat volume the Elegoo Saturn holds about 500 milliliters the Epax E10 holds 700 milliliters again more milliliters better for larger prints less time refilling.
build plate for the Epax E10

Build Plate Design

Let's take a quick look at the build plate design. The Elegoo Saturn has this ball with two set screws in it. It makes it really easy to adjust when you're leveling but it's also very prone to movement especially when you're kind of digging in and knocking off bigger prints from the build plate or just generally moving the build plate around outside of the printer and it bumps around a lot. I had a good deal of problems keeping that build plate level between prints and finally, I just resorted to leveling it after each print. The Epax E10 on the other hand has the kind of more traditional rectangular screw mount setup very very solid it came leveled from the factory and in months of printing hundreds of prints so far I haven't had to level it once it is rock solid. Another quick thing on the build plate design the Epax has, I don't know how to describe it, like a more rounded top to the build plate takes up more space in the vat so I think if you put the Saturn build plate style on the Epact you can eat even more resin in that vat but as it is now as it goes into the vat it really displaces a ton of resin which I guess could be good it's a little annoying though.

Overall Difference

Another big difference is the overall size the Saturn appears tiny compared to the Epax E10 even though they have relatively the same build size just the physical size of them is a lot different. If you're tight on space the Saturn is the one for you and one more quick thing here it's not super important but the Epax E10 comes with a SanDisk cruiser USB which is a little bit nicer USB stick than the more generic one that comes with the Saturn generally you're going to get better lifespan from a SanDisk USB than you will from a more generic USB when it comes to print speed. I don't see any real major differences here again internally I don't know if they're the exact same printer but they appear to be really close to the exact same printer.
difference between printers

Price

Finally, let's talk price and this is where it gets really complicated. The Elegoo Saturn list price is right around $500 if you can find one, they come up on Amazon and they get sold out really really quickly. If you go to Amazon right now there's a good chance that you're gonna only see resellers and they're selling it for about $749.  The E10, on the other hand, I can only really find it available from Epax maybe Banggood and they all have the same relative price of $699. Another thing to consider is at the time of making this video in April of 2021, there seems to be a little bit of a supply chain issue with the Saturn they're rarely in stock on Amazon from Elegoo themselves, and parts are a little bit more difficult to come by. The Epax on the other hand, you can order any parts extra build plates extra vats extra screens whatever you need from their website and it appears to be readily available Elegoo. I’m in the process of replacing my LED screen right now and I had to contact them directly. They were super helpful but I had to contact them directly and they're shipping me one directly from China, it's going to take a few weeks to get here.

The Big Question

So the big question, is the Epax E10 worth $200 more than the Elegoo Saturn? Well, I would say yeah, in general, the better build quality the better construction, and at least right now the readily available parts put it over the top for me. If you are printing for a business the Epax E10 is the solid choice, now that's not to say that Elegoo Saturn is a bad printer,  I've printed hundreds of prints on this thing it is really really good. If these printers were the same price the E10 would barely eke out the Saturn but for two hundred dollars less, the Saturn is an absolutely solid choice. You really can't go wrong with either of these printers guys they're both going to produce fantastic results for you. I'd say if you need that bigger build volume that extra two inches in the z then it's a no-brainer get the E10, if you're just printing minis you're not printing anything too high the Elegoo Saturn will rock your world with its build quality and speed.

Hey guys thanks for watching. Take it easy, take care, and tight lines.