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Quest For Shiny Lures – Part 2 Flawless Victory!

Quest For Shiny Lures - Part 2 Flawless Victory! 1


Hey guys! Welcome back to part two of making your resin molds super shiny. As soon as I finished with part one, where I discovered that painting on the Siraya Tech resin onto the mold cavity produced extremely shiny results, I figured that there had to be a better way to do this. I knew I definitely didn’t want to paint all of my individual mold cavities like some resin Bob Ross- ain’t nobody got time for that! As soon as I published that first video, I came outside and looked at one of my newest molds on the printer and it immediately hit me. The mold already has a nice thin layer of uncured resin on it, I wonder if I can use this resin to produce a shiny layer.

A couple of quick thins about my print settings. I’ve noticed that moving to a .04 layer line and about a two second exposure for my sculpt resin, that is heated, produces really great results. The other thing I’ve done is add a light off delay Chitubox. Using Chitubox 1.9 basic (which is their free version) you're going to need to upgrade your your firmware to the latest version if you have an Epax E10 printer like me. Links to all of that here.

settings in lure making program

Once you get Chitubox installed and you can see my settings here. You can use these on any slicer. I think the one thing that I have noticed with Chitubox 1.9 is the rest after retract setting is much easier to use than what it’s normally called, which is a light off delay which involves a lot of math to figure out. This setting, you just plug it in and I have mine at one second and it made a huge difference in the quality of my print. I wanted to share that with you guys because getting the best quality prints is the key to getting this finish. If you have a print that is overexposed it becomes grainy and not as tight which makes this method more difficult and does not produce great results.

So seeing that nice and shiny coat of uncured resin on my mold cavity made me think that there has to be a way that I can utilize this. What I found out over the course of three or four molds is what you want to do is take your mold off of the build plate, get some paper towels and rub the top part of the mold NOT the cavity. You set top edge and all around it with the paper towel to remove as much uncured resin as possible so that what you’re left with is a thin coat of uncured resin inside the mold cavity but the rest of the mold doesn’t have any uncured resin on it or if it does it’s in very small amounts. What will happen is if you hit this with a UV flashlight it cures a very nice, shiny coat if resub inside your mold cavity. If you have any other uncured resin inside the mold, it is likely to get cured in this process and will cause you problems.

curing a lure with a UV flashlight

So things you want to keep an eye out for is if you have tail cavities or any very fine detail that you have, you want to get the resin out of those crevices. This can be an extensive process when you have a lot of details so you might just want to go with the painting method instead of this one. This method works fantastically on molds with wide areas that you just want nice and shiny.

So you hit it with that UV flashlight again and I just hold it close and run it around the mold for about five to ten seconds total just to set it. Then, you wash it like you would normally do, I use denatured alcohol for my sculpt then I just swish it around and wipe it off and let it dry. You want to get it completely dry before you cure it. You can cure it as you normally would, I use a curing chamber but you can use whatever you normally use it doesn’t really matter. Cure if for about twenty-five minutes which is recommended for sculpt and you’re done! You have a nice, shiny mold! We can check out what it looks like when they get out, as you can see it’s very shiny and I think it’s even more shiny than the painted on resin because this is a much more uniform coat of uncured resin before you actually cure it.

shiny resin lure

Now I did run into a few problems using this technique. As I mentioned before, details and holes, specifically paddle tail, can get too much resin in there that hasn’t drained and you can’t wash it before this. So if you hit it with the UV light it’s going to cure in there and cause all kinds of problems. You can try to cover this area by gently trying to flush it out, but it’s still an issue. The second issue I ran into is sometimes there’s just a little bit of stuff in the uncured resin and it could be a little piece that flaked off or a hair or any number of things. You just have to keep a watchful eye out for those and pull them out with some tweezers or another small tool. You can always come back with a brush and smooth it out, you just don’t want to disturb the overall uniform look of this coat of uncured resin.

If you missed part one, the link is right here and if you want to see my 3D printed lure videos they’re in a playlist linked right here.

 

Take Care – Tight Lines

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Quest for Shiny Lures – Part 1 The Trials

Quest for Shiny Lures - Part 1 The Trials 2


All right guys! So after my last video where I compared a CNC mold to a resin 3D printed mold, the only thing that was better in the CNC mold was the lure which was a little but, well a lot, more shiny. So I set out on a quest to get my resin 3D printed molds as shinny as CNC. Let’s go see how I did.

All right so I decided to try to make my molds as shiny as a CNC aluminum mold and I set out to use some stuff that I’ve seen used in the past on other molds like Plaster of Paris molds and things I’ve seen used in resin 3D printers to repair surfaces that I thought would be worth a shot. So I’m using the same fiddle fin mold I’ve used before and what I’m going t do is apply three different spray paints, some worm oil and some sculpt resin (the same resin I use to 3D print the mold). Let’s see how it works.

CNC mold and resin mold side by side

So the spray paints I’m using are a high heat black and a high heat aluminum (just because I thought it’d be cool to have aluminum) and an enamel that looked really shiny when I saw it at the store. So I simply spray painted these on in mask-off areas. Next up was the sculpt resin. This is a pretty simple technique as well, I simply poured some resin out of the vat, placed it in a little cup, used a brush and brushed it into the mold cavity itself. Then, I hit it with the UV flashlight to set it, just like your printer works. Then I threw it in my wash and cure and cured it for about five minutes. It doesn’t really need a full cure but of course you can do a full cure I just don’t think it needs that long since it’s a very thin coat. That’s the secret to resin, very thin coats. I try to do the same thing with the spray paints as well but I didn’t prime them I just shot a coat or two so I could get coverage since saving the details over the shine was my main priority. I don’t think making it shiny for the sake of shiny is important, the details are.

Last but not least, right before I shot this bad boy I threw some worm oil into the cavity and spread it around with my finger. This was not a great technique at all, it probably would have been better to use a brush and kind of brush a thin coat in there. There’s one thing I noticed while I was doing all of these which is my resin 3D mild was not as smooth as I thought it should be. I was getting this kind of fuzzy texture, which is the best way to describe it. It wasn’t fuzzy exactly but definitely not nice and clean. So I did some research and I’ll have the results of my findings in my next video so if you want to see these awesome findings make sure you subscribe.

man making shiny lures using a mold

So I just grab some re-melts, grab my puck of what I call galaxy which is Dead-On Plastix Salt Water, Dead-On Plastix Black with glitter. I think it looks really cool, I thought the black would bring out the shine of the glitter a bit. I chopped all that up, threw it in the microwave and shot it in the two molds that I had and here are the results.

So first off, when I first cracked the molds open I thought the enamel looked spectacular. Then, when I went to touch it I realized that the enamel paint had come off and it was on the lures everywhere so I don’t think it could handle the temperatures, which I shot at about 320 Fahrenheit I think. Obviously, not a great result.

The two high heat paints weren’t really any more shiny than the resin mold was originally so not a good result. The worm oil is interesting, it certainly is shiny but also picked up these odd deformities here and there. I think too heavy of a coat kind of pooled it up in certain spots and caused an issue but it is shiny so I’ll give it that. But by far, the most spectacular result was the sculpt resin that I painted inside the mold cavity. Look at this bad boy, the one on the top here with the root beer and gold flake is the CNC from the original video and the black one here is the resin mold with the Siraya Tech Sculpt painted in there and cured. I think it’s more shiny than the CNC mold.

shiny lures side by side So the great thing about this technique with the sculpt resin is it’s the same exact material the mold is made out of so it will last as long as the mold will last which is a long time. So far, I’m on 120 shots with one mold and it’s still going strong, no damage, no deformations or anything like that. The only real downside is obviously it’s an extra process after you print your mold, you then have to paint in the cavities and cure it again. I'm probably not going to do that because for me shiny is not that exciting, not that worth the extra time and effort. But if shiny is worth the extra time and effort for you, this is how you get it done.

So all my tutorials and videos on 3D printing fishing lures and molds are right here.

 

Take care everybody- Tight lines

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Simple Twist Worm Lure with Fusion 360

Simple Twist Worm Lure with Fusion 360 3


Hey guys! What’s up, today we’re back with another super simple Fusion 360 lure design. I’ve been really focusing on these simpler designs to get everybody comfortable in Fusion but still make some really great lures. Let’s check it out!

I do suggest watching this video all the way through before you try to follow along, it’ll make it a lot easier in the long run. All right guys, this is one of the simpler lures to make and we’re going to make it using only one command that we haven’t used before on this channel and that’s the sweep command. Let’s jump into Fusion 360 and start out by drawing a very simple line. I think we can all do this, make a line you just click on one point and click to another point and set your link. This is going to be pretty much the length of your lure and we’re actually going to use this with our sweep command so you can set it to however long you want your lure to be.

polygon face of lure in Fusion 360

Now we have our line that is going to be the overall length of our lure, more or less. Now what we’re going to do is draw a polygon on this front face. Now, I’m not an expert on the polygon command so I’m actually going to make a mistake here. I’m going to make mine too big but the basic idea is that you’re going to see the radius which will then double and that will be the width of your lure, from the flat edge to the center. There’s other ways to draw a polygon and there’s an excellent video by Product design Online, which is one of my favorite Fusion 360 channels, which I’ll link at the end of this video. The basic idea here is that your radius which again is going to be half of how big you want your lure to be. This is where I made a mistake, I made a mistake by making my radius 11 which is what I want my overall length to be. I should have made my radius like 5.5, but hey we all make mistakes.

Then, you’ll set the number of sides and this is where you can have some fun with this. This is not a very specific way to make an exact lure, you’ll see more about that in a second. So I’ just going to choose a number of sides that I think is cool then click okay. Now the exciting part starts with using the sweep command. We’re going to select the path as our line that we made and our face or shape as the polygon that we just made and you’ll see it stretches out directly.

taper angle of lure on Fusion 360

Now the real fun is in these two parameters here. One is the taper angle and the other is rotations. So what we want is to have our lure not go straight back like and have it all one flat side. We want it to taper down and get smaller and to do that you want to set a negative taper angle and that’s just going to bring it down. Now the drawback to this type of design is it’s difficult to get an exact and precise end result on the tail of our lure. So just kind of eyeball it here which is going to take a little bit of trial and error to get through. If you wanted to make it exact, you’d probably do a loft but then you wouldn’t be able to do this next step.

Now the cool part is this twist parameter here and this is the number of degrees of a twist or rotations. Basically you just set this number to any number you want, usually they’re higher numbers around the 90s-180s. You can just play with this number and get crazy. You’ll see here it turns into a giant fuzz ball when I accidentally forget a decimal point. Just kind of play with it, it’s not too taxing on your computer generally speaking, just kind of figure out with you like and click okay.

Twist lure on Fusion 360

Now if you’re one of those Crappie lure guys that like those little ice pick lures, you’re pretty much done. You might put a fillet on either end here on the front or the back and you’re pretty much set. But, I want to put a tail on this lure because I’m going to use this like a swimbait. The simplest tail you can actually do is a ball and they actually make surprisingly good swimbait tails. They have a nice, slow thump and it’s not very erratic, it’s kind of slow boom to the side and to do that it’s pretty easy. It’s pretty easy to make, all I do is create a sphere and click on the very back face of the tail of my lure. Again, I make it the size that I think looks right. You want it about the same size or smaller than the face that you made in the front and make sure you click join. That’s it, you’re done, you have a lure and it looks pretty darn cool. It’s definitely not your normal boring worm.

This is great for a Ned for a swimbait or for whatever you want to do, it’s really cool. I just make my mold around the side which you’ve seen in my other videos and I hit print. This is where, of course, I figured out that I made this way too big but I’ll use it offshore for some lings or some snapper. Whatever, it’ll work.

Twist worm lure on Fusion 360

So the great thing about Fusion 360 is it’s usually pretty easy to go back in and fix any mistakes you make without have to redo the whole design. The polygon command doesn’t really let you go back and change the radius unless you lock it. I suggest watching the Product Design Online polygon video before you do your polygon design, it’ll help you not screw up your polygon. I didn’t watch the video first and so I had to go back in and create a new sketch and make the size of the polygon I want and redo my sweep command. I just selected this new face as the face I want to use and then everything else falls into place and the mold I get is pretty cool.

I’ll be printing this lure up and fishing with it at the end of the week. Some of you guys have been asking me why I haven’t been fishing. Well, I have but it’s been so freaking hot that my camera can’t even keep up with it. I got some fixes in place and I think I got it down so we’ll go fishing.

 

Polygon Product Design Online video is here. My other simple lure design videos are here.

Take care, everybody- tight lines.

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8 Tips for 3D printed Fishing Lure Molds

8 Tips for 3D printed Fishing Lure Molds 4


What’s up everybody and welcome back to Gulfstream Outdoors! Today I’m going to give you my top five tips for 3D printed resin molds. Wait, no, eight tips. Holy crap you’re getting a lot of value out of this video. So if you’ve watched all my videos in their entirety, you’ve probably already heard some of these tips but I wanted to put them all into one spot so I can answer every ones questions.

visual of tip 1- using Siraya Tech Sculpt resin

Tip One

Number one, pick the right resin. To me, there’s only one resin to use and that’s Siraya Tech Sculpt. It has a heat deflection temperature of 320 degrees Fahrenheit and all that really means is at what point it starts to bow and warp and get all messed up. I don’t really know too much about the parameters of the heat deflection test, I know it has a specific width of material. I’ve shot lures well above 400 degrees Fahrenheit and not had any deformation in my molds. All of my molds are a standard 15 millimeters width on each side so I think it’s even at a thinner material than 15 millimeters that are really starting to form at that temperature. It can handle a lot of heat, there are other high temperature resins out there just make sure your heat deflection temperature is above 300-320 degrees Fahrenheit. I believe Siraya Tech Sculpt is really want you want and I have it linked here.

Visual of tip 2 - printing molds whole

Tip Two

My number two tip is to print it solid. Yes, you can hollow it out and yes you’ll save some resin but really what ends up happening is, especially with Siraya Tech Sculpt, is that it’s a brittle material. So if you have a hollow mold and you’re trying to put it together with a vise, screws or anything else, you’re probably going to crack it when you really want that mold to last. This mold here I’ve shot at least 100 times and absolutely nothing is wrong with it. It has a chip in it but that’s from me dropping it. If I had dropped it and it was hollow, the drop probably would have shattered the whole thing which is no good.

visual of tip 3- printing lure vertically and chamfering

Tip Three

Tip number three is print it flat to the build plate and chamfer it. A solid block of resin, even a small mold, is a lot heavier than most of the things these 3D printers are used to printing so you want to give it the most support as possible. The best chance of success for me is printing it flat against the build plate and chamfering the edges in Fusion 360, or whatever you use to design your lure, that’ll help you get it off the build plate. Printing flat also compensates for the elephant’s foot that you’re going to get when you print something flat on the build plate. Elephant’s foot is when you over expose resin to the light and it leaks out to the side and your material hardens at the edges wider than the actual mold. If you do that flat without the chamfer, when you go to put them together you’re going to have a lip and you’re going to have to sand it and nobody likes sanding. So by chamfering it you give some room for that elephant’s foot to go into place and when you put them together it’s flat and no sanding is required.

visual of tip 4- molds vertical

Tip Four

Tip number four is related to tip number three and that’s that you want to print it at the skinniest edge to the build plate. A lot of people think when I say flat against the build plate that I mean literally right on top of the build plate and that’s really destined to fail. You have tons of surface area here on your FEP and it leads to peeling on the edges because a lot of pull force. Sometimes you can get away with the top edge on the build plate but I tend to notice that the edges will pull off. You can usually use those molds but the holes will deform slightly, but usually it’s okay. The absolute best way to print is vertically with a short side on the build plate. This is the longest print time possible since it’s largely determined by the number of layers you have on the z-axis. So printing horizontally is the shortest print time I could print at about 40 minutes on my Epax E 10. It would fail, but I could print it. It would probably be about 6 hours with the lures facing out and about 11 hours vertically. But printing vertically is going to get me a print that is pretty much flawless every time. I can probably print two or three molds vertically just by stacking them back and forth. So, the longest print time gives you the best results with the smallest edge going onto the build plate. One more thing about this mold, it is a little tricky because it has the injection port on the side, but if you have a mold in general you want to put the injection port at the bottom. That’s going to give you the cleanest print on that injection port.

visual of tip 5- using nuts and bolts

Tip Five

All right, tip number five. Don’t use any kind of holes and keys for alignment- use nuts and bolts. I have my fiddle fin mold here and I have holes going all the way through it. I use a ¼ in- 20 which goes right through. For the ¼ in- 20, I use these wing nuts with the washers on then and then screw it down and it’s easily aligned. Now I need another one on the end but you really only need them at two or three point to be totally aligned. I can put my mold in my vice with my vice across the bottom and I’m ready to shoot. The reason why I don’t recommend keys is generally resin is not accurate enough for you to design it in Fusion 360 and move a key across and cut a hole. You’ll need to make that initial hole bigger on the other side and it’s going to depend on the resin and on exposure and I find that it’s not really consistent with a hole. With a nut and bolt, you get relatively consistent results and in Fusion 360 you can use the clearance setting in the hole which generally works without any issues.

visual of tip 6- venting in Fusion 360

Tip Six

Bonus tip- venting. Now I have some videos where I didn’t vent at all and that does seem to work fairly well. If you do decide you want a vent, only vent one side of the mold and not both. I learned from this guy on a Facebook group that does CNC molds and I use that technique on my latest big saltwater 8 inch grub and it seems to be working really well. What I do in Fusion 360 is literally turn off one side of the mold, draw lines where I want the VIN holes to be, use the pipe command and just carve only that one side of the mold and it seems to work really well.

visual of tip 7- using measurements

Tip Seven

All right, a few top secret numbers here really quickly as a bonus. The injection port size I use is 15.2 millimeters. Again, to make room in the mold. I use the whole command and I use the counterbore. What that does is the 15.2 size goes down a bit and then I can shrink my sprue hole to the size that I want in order to fit my bait right. That size can be totally dependent on what size bait you have. To not blow away the face of the bait and make it a lot easier. I also use the drill point tip and use the cone it has to poke into the front of my bait, just enough to get the plastic in there. For the vents, I use the pipe command and my pipe diameter is 0.2 millimeters. It really ends up being .1 millimeters because you’re going to use half of it which is two layer lines on my printer. That’s just enough to let the air out and not enough to let the plastisol all out unless you’re shooting like, molten hot lava.

visual of tip 8- using 15 millimeter extrusion

Tip Eight

Last tip I almost forgot for when you’re making your mold extrude each half at 15 millimeters. An easy way to do this is just to do a symmetrical extrude at 15 millimeters which is going to end up a little over an inch and a half. This should contain your lures since not too many lures are over an inch and a half in any one direction. Even if you have a thin lure, you want to print it 15 millimeters because that’s going to give you 30 millimeters total and that gives you enough area around the injection port to not cause any warping or weirdness.

 

If I missed anything guys, or if you have a tip I don’t know about please let me know. I don’t think there’s a ton of people on the planet doing what we’re doing so we all need to learn from each other!