It's time to wave goodbye to 2020. Later, Bro! 2021 is going to be an awesome year! To celebrate 2021, I am kicking off this year with a massive lure giveaway. I have decided that this year I am only going to use lures that I make myself. Luckily for you all, I am giving away every single store-bought lure I own, and trust me, I purchased a ton last year. It’s time to remove all temptation and give away all 21 boxes and counting of all new and lightly used lures.
Entering the giveaway is simple. All you have to do is sign up for my mailing list. Hey, I get it, you may not want to sign up for a new mailing list. If you don’t win or don’t value information on handcraft lure making, or 3D printing, you can easily unsubscribe.
Again, in order to enter, all you need to do is sign up for my mailing list. This giveaway is open to everyone on the planet. As long as I can send you your package through US Postal Service, it's all yours. The drawing will be held on January 21st. You will be receiving an email to notify you of the drawing. We will be pulling names, matching them to numbers on our giveaway boxes, and shipping them off to you. Giveaway items will vary. Boxes may have soft plastics, hard bates and can be used to fish bass, saltwater, or inshore. You will definitely find a lure in the package that will meet your needs.
Winter in Texas means a bone-chilling 50 degrees at night! This may not be cold for the rest of the world but for us Texans and Resin 3d Printers, it's cold! For today's video, it's time to learn a fast and easy way to create a heated enclosure for your resin 3d Printer. These printers as you know like to print at a high temperature. For best results, you are looking at a temperature of 85 degrees.
To save you the research, I have dived into researching already great DYI methods on YouTube to find the best way to DYI an enclosure for your 3D printer. What I’ve discovered is that “You need a hot box, Bro!”Let's start by creating something fast and easy.
The first thing I did was purchase a Heated Enclosure by Creality. It easily holds the Elegoo Saturn or any printer similar to that size. Keep in mind, these enclosures are essentially planting boxes used to grown plants indoors.If you need anything larger, go on amazon and search for grow tents. Make sure you can see inside the enclosure, and it's heat resistant. I added a cool RGB light as an add on. It's extra!
Next, you'll need a heater. I purchased a ceramic heater from Amazon. Remember, larger boxes will require a larger heater.
Lastly, you’ll need a way to control the heater. It is important that you have the ability to set the temperature on and off. Luckily, you can control the heat with a Temperature Probe. These are usually used in gardening and can be hard to understand at first. Once you hit that setup button a few times, you can expect it to work flawlessly.
To summarize, after this setup, I do not have anymore temperature variation failures and can run my printer inside this enclosure without any issues. You should also see that it cuts down on the fumes as well. This setup only takes 10 minutes and it's super easy! As always, thank you for watching this video, and be sure to like and subscribe to my channel!
Now for part 2, we're going to explore more about the differences between major types of printers and help you decide which might be best for you. FDM printers are definitely a bit more fidgety and have more moving parts, so this may require more upkeep and ongoing maintenance. For resin printers, they have fep sheet which resembles a drum, and there are lots of screws involved but I would say this is the better choice for getting started right out of the box.
Both printers understand G Code, but the major software needed for FDM and Resin printers are Ultimaker Cura and Chitubox, respectively. Cura is much more refined and easy to use, so coupling this with the FDM makes it very workable almost immediately. For post-processing, you can pretty much pop your model right off of the FDM printer, other than removing some of the support structures.
Resin 3D printers do have a major downside, and that starts with removing the bill plate out of the printer and unfortunately, your model will be covered in a lot of undesirable chemicals that you definitely don't want on you. After removing your print, you must clean off the resin with rubbing alcohol and then expose it to UV light or physically scrape the toxic chemicals off of the print. However, the amazing details of a resin print can sometimes be worth all of that trouble. You can render incredible levels of detailed miniature objects, including my Baby Yoda model I recently produced.
Overall, the FDM prints are of adequate quality but the resin prints completely blow them out of the water. As parts get bigger, FDM is going to be the faster of the two but it depends on if speed or precision is the factor that you are looking to base your purchase on. For example, one of my recent resin prints took upwards of 18 hours, which obviously included running overnight, yet the same print on an FDM was able to finish at right around 5 hours, though of differing quality.
In conclusion, if you are only looking to make very basic lure models and care more about how quickly and how many you are making, FDM is the way to go. However, anything detail-oriented that allows you to be patient with your print definitely steers you towards the resin. Thank you for watching, and as always please like this video and subscribe to my channel for more awesome content!